How Many Watts Does an RV AC Use?

When you’re out exploring in your RV, staying cool can make all the difference. If you’ve ever wondered how many watts an RV AC use, the answer depends on your unit’s size and efficiency. 

Most RV air conditioners draw between 600 and 1,700 watts while running, with a short startup surge of 1,500 to 3,500 watts. Knowing these numbers helps you plan your energy setup, especially if you camp off-grid or rely on solar power.

TL;DR:

RV ACs use 600–1,700W running and 1,500–3,500W to start. A 13,500 BTU unit averages 1,200W, while 15,000 BTU models need more power. Use a 2,000–3,000W generator or solar setup, add a soft-start kit, and keep your AC clean for efficient cooling anywhere.

Quick Watts-by-BTU Chart (Running vs Starting)

An RV air conditioner’s watt usage depends on its BTU rating; the higher the BTU, the higher the power draw. On average, a 13,500 BTU AC uses around 1,200 watts running and 2,700 watts to start, while a 15,000 BTU unit may need up to 3,500 watts at startup. 

Smaller 7,000–10,000 BTU units usually run between 600–800 watts. The difference between starting watts and running watts is key: when the compressor first kicks in, it demands 2–3× more power for a few seconds before stabilizing. 

Once running, the draw remains steady until the compressor cycles off. This means your power source generator, shore power, or inverter must handle both the surge load and the continuous running load comfortably.

What Affects RV AC Wattage?

RV AC wattage varies depending on several real-world factors, including BTU size, startup surge, efficiency, and even weather. Let’s break these down with practical examples.

1. BTU Size

The BTU rating (British Thermal Units) determines how much heat the AC can remove per hour.

• A 7,000 BTU unit uses about 600 watts running.
• A 10,000 BTU unit runs around 700 watts.
• A 13,500 BTU unit needs 1,200–1,300 watts.
• A 15,000 BTU unit requires up to 1,700 watts running.

In simple terms: higher BTU → higher watt draw. Choosing an AC that matches your RV size avoids wasting power on unnecessary capacity.

2. Startup Surge

Every compressor-based AC draws extra power at startup.
For example, a 13,500 BTU model might momentarily spike to 2,700–3,000 watts, while a 15,000 BTU model can peak near 3,500 watts. 

This surge lasts just a few seconds but can overload small inverters if not accounted for. Installing a soft-start kit can cut startup demand by up to 60%, making it easier to run your AC on smaller generators or solar power stations.

3. AC Efficiency and Age

Older or dirty ACs use more power. A modern high-efficiency RV AC (Energy Star-rated) may run at 1,200 watts, while a 10-year-old unit might draw 1,500 watts for the same cooling. Cleaning coils and replacing filters regularly keeps energy use low and cooling strong.

4. Ambient Temperature and Insulation

In hotter weather or poorly insulated RVs, the compressor runs longer and cycles more often.
Example: at 90°F, your AC might run 70–80% of each hour, consuming 8–10 kWh per day, while at 75°F, it might run only half as long.

5. Ducted vs. Non-Ducted Systems

Ducted units (common in Class A and C motorhomes) typically use 200–300 more watts than single-zone non-ducted ceiling units due to airflow losses and multiple vents. For small trailers or vans, a non-ducted AC is more efficient.

Generator and Inverter Sizing (With Real Examples)

The right generator or inverter must handle both surge (startup) and continuous (running) wattage. Add 20–25% headroom to prevent overload.

Gas/Propane Generators

Most RVers use portable inverter generators rated between 2,000 and 3,500 watts.

• A 2,000W generator can run a 13,500 BTU AC if it has a soft-start kit.
• Without a soft-start, you’ll likely need a 3,000W generator.
• For dual ACs, step up to 4,500–5,000 watts total capacity.

Example:

A 15,000 BTU AC running at 1,500W with a startup surge of 3,500W → needs at least a 3,800W generator to run reliably.

Solar Generators and Portable Power Stations

Solar power stations like Jackery Explorer 2000 Plus or Growatt Infinity 2000 can run mid-size RV ACs for short durations.

• A 2,000Wh battery running a 1,200W AC = roughly 1.4 hours runtime (2,000 × 0.85 ÷ 1,200).
• A 3,000Wh setup extends that to about 2.1 hours.

Larger-capacity units (expandable to 4,000–6,000Wh) can run a 13.5k BTU AC for a few hours, ideal for short cooling periods while boondocking.

Inverter Specs

Your inverter’s continuous rating must cover running watts, and its surge rating must exceed the startup load.

• Example: A 2,000W pure sine wave inverter may trip at startup without a soft-start kit.
• A 3,000W inverter with 6,000W surge capability handles most 15k BTU units comfortably.

Can a 30-Amp RV Run the AC?

Yes, a 30-amp RV can easily run one air conditioner, typically up to 15,000 BTU, but you must manage other appliances to avoid tripping breakers.

At 120 volts, a 30-amp circuit provides 3,600 watts total. A 13,500 BTU AC uses around 1,200 watts, leaving ~2,400 watts for lights, fridge, and outlets. 

Avoid running the microwave, water heater, or hair dryer simultaneously with the AC to stay within limits.

Daily Energy Use and Trip Planning

Your RV AC’s daily watt-hour usage depends on how long it runs and its wattage.

1. Typical Daily Consumption

If your AC runs 8 hours per day at 1,200W, you’ll use about 9.6 kWh/day. A 15,000 BTU AC at 1,500W for 10 hours uses 15 kWh/day. That’s equivalent to draining a 12V 400Ah lithium battery bank in one day.

2. Planning for Solar or Generator Use

Rooftop solar panels (400–600W total) generate about 1.6–2.4 kWh per day to recharge your batteries, but not to power the AC all day. Pairing solar with a 2,000Wh–3,000Wh power station lets you cool for a few hours during the hottest part of the day.

3. Optimizing Cooling and Efficiency

Simple habits, such as parking in shade, using reflective covers, and cleaning filters, can cut cooling time by up to 25%, saving hundreds of watt-hours daily. Many full-time RVers (about 1 million in the U.S.) rely on a mix of generator use, solar, and smart cooling to stay comfortable year-round.

Model-Specific Ranges (Popular RV AC Lines)

Different RV air conditioner brands draw different amounts of power depending on their design, cooling capacity, and efficiency. Most popular RV AC models use between 1,000 and 1,700 watts while running and require 2,000 to 3,500 watts to start up.

When comparing models, you’ll notice that high-efficiency or “power saver” lines from brands like Coleman, Dometic, and Furrion can cut power draw by 10–20% compared to standard models. Here’s how the most common units stack up:

• Coleman Mach 3 Power Saver: Around 1,070W running, 2,100–3,200W starting. Designed for 13,500 BTU cooling, it’s a great choice for 30-amp RVs.
• Dometic Penguin II (Low Profile): Roughly 1,300W running, 2,600–3,900W starting, with better aerodynamics and moderate efficiency.
• Furrion Chill: Draws 1,600W running, 3,200–4,800W starting, but cools faster and quieter, ideal for large RVs or hot climates.
• Atwood Air Command: Uses about 1,250W running and 2,500–3,700W starting, balancing strong output with good energy efficiency.

What Size Solar Generator Do You Need? (Jackery & Growatt Scenarios)

To run an RV AC with solar power, you’ll need a generator or power station with at least 2,000 to 3,000 watts of output and 2,000 to 4,000 watt-hours of battery capacity, depending on your AC’s BTU and runtime goals.

For instance, a 13,500 BTU AC that draws 1,200W continuously will run for roughly 1.4 hours on a 2,000Wh generator like the Jackery 2000 Plus or Growatt Infinity 2000 (calculated as 2,000 × 0.85 ÷ 1,200). If you upgrade to a 3,000Wh+ system, you’ll get closer to 2–2.5 hours of runtime.

• Jackery Solar Generator 2000 Plus: 2,000W output, 2,042Wh capacity, good for quick cooling cycles or running AC intermittently.
• Jackery Solar Generator 3000 Pro: 3,024Wh capacity, 3,000W output can handle 15,000 BTU ACs for short stints with soft-start kits.
• Growatt Infinity 2000: 2,048Wh capacity, 2,200W continuous output, strong surge handling, and fast solar recharge.
• Growatt Infinity 1500: Slightly smaller, ideal for 10,000 BTU or smaller rooftop ACs.

Troubleshooting High Watt Draw

If you notice your RV air conditioner suddenly using more power than normal, it’s often due to dirty coils, low voltage, or a failing capacitor. 

These issues increase resistance and make the compressor work harder, causing higher watt draw and reduced efficiency.

Dirty Coils or Filters

When dust or debris builds up on the coils or filters, airflow decreases, and the compressor runs longer to cool the RV. 

This can increase watt usage by up to 20–30%. Clean filters monthly and coils every few months to maintain proper airflow.

Low Voltage from Campground Power

Low voltage (below 108V) forces the compressor to pull more amps, which raises total watts used and risks motor damage. 

Always use an RV surge protector or EMS to monitor and regulate voltage. This helps protect your AC and other sensitive electronics.

Weak Capacitors or Aging Compressor

Aging capacitors or worn compressors make it harder for the AC to start, spiking startup power and increasing running watts. 

Test capacitors with a multimeter and replace them if readings fall below 10% of their rated capacity.

Blocked Vents or Duct Leaks

Restricted airflow from blocked vents or leaks causes uneven cooling and extra strain on the fan motor. 

Check duct connections and make sure vents are clear of obstructions to keep airflow efficient and watt draw stable.

Safety and Best Practices

Knowing how many watts an RV AC uses is only part of staying safe. 

Proper power management and routine checks protect both your air conditioner and your RV’s electrical system from overloads and damage.

Use the Right Extension Cords

Always use heavy-duty 10- or 12-gauge cords rated for 30 amps. Thinner cords can overheat, melt plugs, or even cause fires under high loads.

Monitor Plug and Outlet Temperature

A warm plug is normal, but a hot one signals electrical resistance or a loose connection. If it feels too hot to touch, unplug and inspect for corrosion or wear before using again.

Install an EMS (Electrical Management System)

An EMS monitors voltage and automatically disconnects your RV from unsafe power sources. It protects against surges, low voltage, and reverse polarity, essential for campground hookups.

Avoid Circuit Overloads

Running your air conditioner alongside other high-wattage appliances can trip breakers or strain wiring. Avoid using the microwave, hair dryer, and water heater at the same time as the AC on a 30-amp hookup.

Inspect Rooftop AC and Wiring

Check your rooftop AC’s seals, vents, and wiring at least twice a year. Moisture or loose fittings can cause short circuits or corrosion over time.

Conclusion

Knowing how many watts an RV AC uses helps you plan your power setup confidently.

Smaller 7,000–10,000 BTU units use about 600–800W, mid-size 13,500 BTU models draw around 1,200W, and 15,000 BTU units can reach 1,700W running with startup surges near 3,500W. 

Choose the right generator or solar system, add a soft-start kit, and keep your AC clean for efficient, reliable cooling on or off the grid.

FAQs 

How many watts does a 13,500 BTU RV AC use?

About 1,000–1,300 W running and ~2,750–3,000 W to start.

Can a 2,000 W generator run my RV AC?

Often yes, with a soft-start on 13.5k BTU units. Without it, a 3,000 W class is safer.

How many watt-hours per day for RV AC?

8.4–15.6 kWh/day is common for 8–12 hours, depending on BTU and heat.

Do soft-start kits reduce energy use?

They reduce the starting surge; running watts stay similar.

Can solar alone run RV AC all day?

Not typically on standard rooftop arrays; you need large battery capacity and robust solar input.